The Ladies’ Pie Table

It’s generally agreed, though never in writing, that the Carroway pie came about shortly after someone returned from across the water carrying a slice of the Smith Island Cake and a great deal of enthusiasm for it.

The reaction on the island was… measured.

There was polite nodding. A few raised brows. One or two remarks about “counting layers being more work than eating them.” And then, not long after, the ovens on Carroway seemed to be in steady use again.

No announcement was made. No challenge declared. But before long, pies began appearing on the table, simple, generous, and impossible to ignore.

Whether this was coincidence or quiet competition depends entirely on who you ask.

The ladies, for their part, have always insisted it wasn’t about outdoing anything.

Though it has been noted, more than once, that no one ever needed to count the layers to know when they’d had enough.

Strawberry, blueberry, and cherry, that’s the way it’s meant to be told, and most will say no more needs saying after that.

The berries are laid in generous measure, sweet and just a little tart, tucked beneath a lattice crust that’s never quite the same twice. Some say the pattern matters. Others say it’s just something to do with your hands while the oven warms. Either way, it comes out the same, golden on top, bubbling at the edges, and gone before it’s had much time to rest.

Now, it should be noted, quietly, and only if asked, that there are a few women on the island who will substitute apples for the cherry. They do this without apology and with a certain confidence that suggests they’ve been right about other things too.

This has led to ongoing discussion.

Not arguments, mind you. Just long conversations, repeated often, usually over a second slice.

No agreement has ever been reached. And none is expected.

 (Most Agree On)

There are as many versions of this pie as there are ovens on the island, but this is the one most will point to—after a pause, as being “close enough.”

• 2 cups strawberries 
• 2 cups blueberries 
• 2 cups cherries, stemmed and pitted 
• 
  

• 1/2 cup sugar for the strawberries 
• 1/2 cup sugar for the blueberries 
• 1/2 cup sugar for the cherries 
• 1 tablespoon cornstarch for each fruit bowl 
• small squeeze of lemon juice for each, if desired

Wash the strawberries, remove the green tops, and cut them into halves or thick slices, depending on size. Place them in a saucepan with 1/2 cup sugar and 1 tablespoon cornstarch. Cook gently over low heat, stirring carefully, until the berries begin to soften and release their juices. The mixture should thicken slightly, but the fruit should still hold its shape. Set aside to cool.

Rinse the blueberries and pick out any stems or soft berries. Place them in a saucepan with 1/2 cup sugar and 1 tablespoon cornstarch. Cook over low to medium heat until some of the berries begin to burst and the juices thicken into a glossy filling. Do not overcook them into jam. Set aside to cool.

Wash the cherries, remove the stems, and pit them. If large, cut them in half. Place them in a saucepan with 1/2 cup sugar and 1 tablespoon cornstarch. Cook gently until the cherries soften and the juices thicken. They should remain rich, deep, and distinct, not mushy. Set aside to cool.

• 2½ cups flour 
• 1 cup cold butter (cut into small pieces) 
• 1 tsp salt 
• 1 tbsp sugar 
• 6–8 tbsp cold water 

Work the butter into the flour until it resembles coarse crumbs. Add water slowly until the dough just comes together. Divide in two, wrap, and let it rest in a cool place (the windowsill will do, weather permitting).

Once all three fillings have cooled enough to handle, spoon them into the prepared bottom crust in separate layers.

Start with a layer of strawberries across the bottom.

Add a full layer of blueberries over that.

Finish with the cherries on top.

Spread each layer gently and evenly so they remain distinct. Do not stir them together. The whole point is that each slice shows the three fruits in order.

Then add the lattice crust over the top and bake as directed.

Bake at 400°F for about 20 minutes, then reduce heat to 350°F and continue for 30–40 minutes, until the crust is golden and the filling bubbles up through the lattice.

Let cool if you can manage it. Few do.

 If apples have been used in place of cherries, it is customary for this to be mentioned before serving, though not always without comment.